Heart Smart

Coronary heart disease is still America's No. 1 killer, according to the American Heart Association and educating the public on ways to help prevent heart disease is first and foremost on many doctor's minds these days.

September/October 2002 • Vol. 5 No. 5

Given the serious drought conditions that have afflicted this region in recent months, 2002 was hardly the year of the beautiful lawn. However, turf doctors say that with reasonable amounts of rainfall and some loving care (but not too much), by next summer your lawn should be able to recover fully, and showcase all its former glory.

Producing a lawn that is the envy of your neighbors doesn't automatically require the use of a professional lawn care service; there's nothing magical or out-of-reach about what's required. Everything you'll need in the way of equipment and supplies should be readily available at your local hardware store or home improvement center. What the pros contribute to achieve the picture-perfect lawn is the knowledge of what to do when –– and the discipline to do just that, but no more.

One of the most common lawn-care problems with homeowners (and even some companies providing lawn care services) is the over-application of fertilizers, pesticides and other products, says Rick Yates, owner of the Wilmington franchise of NaturaLawn of America. He cites what he calls the "might be" application of pesticides –– they are frequently applied solely because of the season, rather than any physical evidence of insect infestation in the lawn, much less insect damage. In addition to killing insects that can damage a lawn, pesticides can also create an imbalance by destroying beneficial insects, the natural enemies of turf-destroying bugs. In other words, he says, applying unnecessary pesticides now can set the stage for future insect damage, next season or beyond.

More Than You Bargained For

While this is an obvious problem when a pesticide is applied directly, it can also result when a homeowner uses a commercial fertilizer that contains a pesticide. So, Yates counsels, unless you are absolutely certain that you have an insect problem (usually evidenced by isolated brown spots that are not the result of visiting dogs), stick to fertilizers that don't contain pesticides. He adds that because of this past summer's drought, area lawns should not have insect problems. "There's nothing for them to feed on. In fact," he adds, "with a healthy lawn that's well maintained, we tend not to see insect infestation."

Another common problem, Yates notes, is the over-application of fertilizer. Homeowners seem to think that "if a little fertilizer is good, then a lot is better." This problem is common when the homeowner doesn't know the actual size of the lawn. If it's only 3,000 square feet and he buys product to treat 5,000, there's a natural tendency to go ahead and use up the balance, rather than save it for another time, he observes.

However, not only is this an unnecessary expense, excessive application of nutrients or herbicides can actually damage your lawn. But an even more likely scenario, according to Yates, is that the excess product will run off into the ecosystem, where both natural and man-made lawn care products can be damaging.

Natural Vs. Synthetic Lawn-Care Products

Though it is mostly fought in the Yellow Pages, a great battle rages between lawn-care companies that promise to use only "natural" products, and those committed, even in their names, to a chemical approach. Which type is better is essentially a personal decision, and there can be far more overlap between the two than their advertising would suggest.

Sometimes, the terms "natural" and "organic" (the latter frequently but incorrectly used as a synonym for "natural"), may not mean precisely what you think. When it comes to certain functions of herbicides (for weed control), pesticides (to control insects) and fungicides (to prevent mold-related problems), chemical warfare may be the only viable solution currently available. And sometimes, the "natural" approach a company espouses may reflect a philosophy to reduce all use of pesticides, relying on a healthy lawn environment to diminish and eventually eliminate the need.

Jon Sibol is owner of Grassworks Inc., a Newport, Delaware-area lawn care business founded nearly a decade ago. His firm may be typical of those employing a mix of natural and synthetic products, depending on the specific need and the problem at hand. Sibol notes, for example, that although aggressive research is underway, there are few truly natural weed controls. "'Environmental friendly' is a buzzword that means different things to different people," he says.

Getting Down to the Soil

Sibol and Yates agree that the secret of achieving a terrific-looking lawn begins with the soil. "The soil in this area is a terrible problem," notes Sibol. "You can't get healthy plants –– or a world-class lawn –– from sick soil."

In New Castle County, the soil tends to be acidic, explains Yates. On a scale in which a pH number of 7 is neutral (neither acid nor alkaline), pH numbers of 4 or 5 to 5.5 are common for area soils. However, most of the so-called "cold season" grasses that thrive in this area require a pH of 6.5 to 6.9, with 6.8 ideal, he says. Achieving the correct balance requires the application of limestone, usually on an annual basis, but the only way to know for sure is a soil test.

For some lawn care companies (such as NaturaLawn), obtaining a soil test is an essential first step in their lawn care programs. Others offer it on request, as an extra-cost option. Locally, individuals can also get their soil tested –– not only for its pH level, but also for the levels of organics and micronutrients –– through the County Extension Office at the University of Delaware's College of Agriculture and Natural Resources. (Soil test kits with complete directions are available through the Extension service for $7.50 ($8.50 by mail).

If you're gathering samples for testing, be sure to get representative samples from all areas –– as many as a dozen may be required, says Yates. The pH can vary significantly between bright sunlit areas and those that are heavily shaded (the pH in shaded areas is generally lower). In addition –– and especially for lawns in relatively new homes –– the quality of the "top" soil that the builder provided for the initial owner often varies significantly from front to rear. Once the proper pH balance has been established (usually, through annual applications of lime, a process that can take several years), additional soil testing is necessary only every three or four years, says Yates.

Picking and Maintaining the Right Lawn

The second most important element is selecting the correct grass variety for local conditions. The classic lawns that most homeowners prefer are Kentucky bluegrass, but this variety is not drought-tolerant, and it's also a favorite of insects, he adds. The best performers in this area are bioengineered varieties of tall fescue grasses. Despite being naturally drought- and insect-tolerant, these varieties have not been popular, because they have thick, tough blades. But grass scientists have engineered tall fescue varieties that have thinner blades and more closely resemble the coveted Kentucky bluegrass.

Unlike Bermuda grass and other southern varieties such as Zoysia that are intended for warmer climates, these "cold-season" varieties will thrive in Delaware's climate, in full and partial sunshine. (Special varieties are designed for areas that will be totally or largely in the shade.)

If you have a lawn composed largely of undesirable varieties, it's possible to gradually transition to a drought- and insect-resistant fescue variety, says NaturaLawn's Yates. And it can be done without starting from scratch or resodding. Just seed your existing lawn with the new variety each fall. Over a ten-year period, the new variety will gradually replace the old. For best results, however, you need to prepare the existing lawn by aerating it. Merely scattering new seed over old thatch won't work, and is generally a waste of time, energy and seed money –– in this case, literally.

Professional Lawn Service Vs. Do-It Yourself

If you have the time, energy and especially the inclination, maintaining a healthy lawn is very much in the realm of a do-it-yourself endeavor, one that is both good exercise and a money-saver. Plenty of advice and counsel is available through the experts at local stores, and fully natural ("organic") lawn care products can be found and purchased via the Internet.

The alternative is to hire the pros to do the job. Depending on the size of your lawn and the specific services your lawn requires, this can run from as little as $200 per year to $500 or more, even for an average-sized suburban lawn –– exclusive of moving, raking, and similar maintenance services.

But selecting a lawn care company is an area where some prudent consumer caution is advised. The Extension Service of Ohio State University offers some useful tips on "What to Look for in a Lawn Care Service" at their Web site, http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/4000/4025.html

In particular, the OSU Web site notes, when it comes to lawn care, cost does not necessarily or automatically equate with quality. In addition, it warns, before you sign a contract, be sure that you understand precisely which services are included in their "standard" packages, what which are extra-cost options. (Disease control is generally not included in standard programs, for example.) Some companies have been known to advertise an unrealistically low cost initially, and then switch unsuspecting customers to higher-priced options. The best protection is to establish in writing what is and isn't included. In addition to mowing and raking, other options may include:

"Established lawn care companies have long recognized that the most successful lawn care program is dependent upon cooperation from, and education of, the homeowner," the OSU Web site notes. With reasonable cooperation from Mother Nature, a fabulous lawn is attainable, but you'll have to reach for it.

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